Figuring out how many watts your power supply actually needs is one of the more commonly overestimated specs in PC building, with many builders buying meaningfully more wattage than their system will ever draw.
Start With Your GPU, Not a Rule of Thumb
Your graphics card is almost always the single largest power consumer in a gaming PC, and its rated power draw should be the anchor point for your PSU wattage calculation rather than a generic rule of thumb based on case size or build type. Add your CPU's rated power draw, then a modest allowance for motherboard, storage, RAM, and fans, which collectively draw far less than either the GPU or CPU individually.
Why Headroom Matters, But Not Excessive Headroom
A power supply running near its maximum rated capacity continuously operates less efficiently and generates more heat than one with reasonable headroom, which is why some margin above your calculated draw is worth building in. That said, doubling your calculated wattage "to be safe" wastes money on a bigger unit than you'll ever use, since PSU efficiency curves generally peak in the 40-60% load range rather than rewarding excessive oversizing.
Future Upgrades Are Worth a Modest Buffer
If you plan to upgrade your GPU within the power supply's expected service life, building in a modest buffer for a more power-hungry future card is reasonable, but this should be a deliberate, modest addition based on a plausible next upgrade, not an open-ended excuse to buy far more wattage than needed.
What to Actually Check Before Buying
Add your GPU and CPU's actual rated power draw, add a modest allowance for the rest of the system, and target a PSU that puts your typical load in the efficient 40-60% range rather than either near-maximum or drastically underutilized. Check your GPU's real power connector requirements too, since wattage alone doesn't guarantee the PSU has the specific connectors your card needs.
Winner
Calculate based on your actual GPU and CPU power draw plus modest headroom, rather than buying the largest PSU you can afford. Overbuying wattage wastes money without meaningfully improving your system's reliability or performance.
Pros and Cons
Calculating from actual component power draw: Gets you a properly sized PSU that runs efficiently and leaves reasonable headroom, without overspending on unused capacity.
Buying the largest PSU "to be safe": Provides ample headroom for any future upgrade, but often means paying for capacity you'll never use and running the PSU outside its most efficient load range.
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