Replacing a laptop screen is like replacing a window pane in an old house. The part number is the pane's order code. Size, thickness, connector and brackets are the frame measurements: if any are off, the pane will not seat or connect. Resolution, panel type, refresh rate and brightness are the quality of the glass. You can sometimes fit better glass, but only if the frame and the laptop accept it. Match the frame first, then choose the glass.
The code printed on the back of the display panel, such as a code from BOE, AUO, Innolux or Sharp.
When it matters: The surest way to find an exact match. Read it from the sticker on your current panel, since one laptop model may ship with several different panels.
The company that made the panel, which is usually not the laptop brand.
When it matters: Different makers can supply the same laptop. Panels from different makers can be swap-compatible when the specs and connector match.
Skip it if you have an equivalent part number match.
A group of panels from different part numbers that share size, resolution, connector and mounting, so they fit the same laptops.
When it matters: Widens your choice when your exact part is scarce. Still check refresh rate, touch and brightness, which can differ within a group.
The diagonal size of the visible screen, in inches.
When it matters: Must match your laptop exactly. Sizes like 15.6 and 16 inch are different panels, not interchangeable.
The outer width and height of the panel, in millimeters.
When it matters: Two panels of the same diagonal can differ in outline and bezel room. Compare with the original to be sure it fits the lid.
How thick the panel is, in millimeters.
When it matters: A thicker panel may stop the lid from closing flush or press against the frame. Slim laptops need slim panels.
The number of pins on the video connector, usually 30 or 40, for the eDP (embedded DisplayPort) cable.
When it matters: Must match your laptop's display cable. 30-pin usually means standard 60 Hz panels; high refresh and higher resolution panels often use 40 pins.
Where the connector sits on the back of the panel, such as bottom left or bottom right.
When it matters: The display cable is a fixed length. A connector on the wrong side will not reach.
How the panel attaches to the lid: side brackets, top and bottom tabs, or no brackets (held by adhesive).
When it matters: Must match the original. Bracketless panels are glued in, which makes the swap more delicate.
The number of pixels, such as 1920 x 1080 (FHD) or 2560 x 1600.
When it matters: Upgrading resolution can work if the connector and laptop support it. Trap: some laptops lack the video lanes or firmware support for higher resolution panels.
The display technology: IPS, TN, VA or OLED.
When it matters: IPS has the best viewing angles of the LCD types. TN washes out when viewed off-center. OLED needs laptop support and may not work as a drop-in upgrade.
How many times per second the screen redraws, in Hz.
When it matters: Trap: a high refresh panel in a laptop built for 60 Hz may stay at 60 Hz, or not work. Match the original unless the laptop was sold with the faster option.
The maximum brightness in nits.
When it matters: 250 nit panels look dim near windows. 300 to 400 nits is comfortable indoors. A brighter replacement uses slightly more battery.
How much of a standard color range the panel shows, such as 45 percent NTSC or 100 percent sRGB.
When it matters: Low-gamut panels look washed out. Upgrading gamut is one of the most visible improvements when the rest of the specs match.
Skip it if you only need a working screen.
The screen finish: matte (anti-glare) or glossy.
When it matters: Matte cuts reflections under office lights. Glossy looks punchier but reflects windows and lamps.
How the LCD panel is lit, usually white LEDs along the edge. OLED panels need no backlight.
When it matters: Affects brightness and power use. Rarely a choice point when replacing, but it must suit the laptop's display circuit.
Skip it if: Skip it when matching an exact part number.
Whether the panel includes touch sensing.
When it matters: Touch panels usually use different connectors and thickness. Trap: a non-touch panel will not add touch to a laptop, and a touch panel will not fit a non-touch laptop without the right cable.